Dark Room Developing

Chemical Processes

Step 1: Developer- 1:1 mix

How to mix the developer.

When mixing the developer and water, take the temperature of the developer first and then match the water, (150ml of water and developer at 20 degrees) 

Example- If your developer reads 22C, you would have to make your water 18C. So when you mix the two together, the temperature will be 20C. 

Developing times: PAN (50 ISO) = 8 - 9 minutes 

FP4 (125 ISO) = 12 minutes 

HP5 (400 ISO) = 14 minutes 

Step 2: Stop Bath 

(pre-mixed from the bottle) 

Stop Bath = 300ml for 30 seconds - Film facedown

(The chemical used, can be re-used)

Step 3: Fix 

(pre-mixed from bottle) 

Fix = 300ml for 5 - 7 minutes 

Agitate film for 5 seconds every 30 seconds untill film is fully fixed.

Step 4: Wash

Wash the film for 10 minutes in a tray of cold, clean water. 

Step 5: Drying

Dry film in a film dryer can take unto 5-15 minutes depending on the temperature

Manual Photography

In this workshop, we had to change the F numbers and the aperture manually. The type of camera we had to use was a Nikon D30. I order to get a good picture, we had to think of the shutter speed, aperture and what our focal point should, or was in the image.
Some of my images were a little bit too over-exposed, such as the 4th and 5th. I could improve those two by changing the shutter speed. By increasing the shutter speed, the lens wouldn't of allowed so much light through the lens, which would change the over-all image, it would've made the colours more vibrate and the focal point would of been more focused.
The 1st image, wasn't awful, but I feel like, there should have been more the in background in order for it to be the focal point. The aperture stayed in F/5-6 through-out all my photos. The shutter speed was on 80. I could of improved this image timing it better, waiting for something better in the background. I like this image, because of contrasting colours of Lily's hair and the trees in the background.
My favourite images were 2nd, 3rd and 6th. I think the focal points were focused well and I think the photos weren't too little, or too over exposed. 

The Albion and Etching Press

The Albion Press

The Albion Press is a model of an early iron hard printing press. Richard Whittaker in 1820 designed it. Albion Press were manufacted in London up till 1930's. They were used for commercial book printing. They worked using a simple toggle action, which presses ink onto a paper. The Albion Press has a wheel on the side of it. You can pull round the wheel which causes the board to move through and under the roller. That puts an even amount of pressure onto the surface you are printing on to. 

The Etching Press

Etching is a form of printing along with engraving. Using the Etching Press- There is a heavy copper or zinc plate, used as the press. It also has a big leaver, when you pull towards you, by pulling this down it pulls down the zinc or copper plate, which causes pressure to forced down into the object being printed onto. Daniel Hopfer had been believed to be the first to use the technique. Etching Presses trace back to the 1500's, they were used to decorate armour and weapons. 

Aperture and Depth of Field

Aperture

Aperture - refers to the lens diaphragm opening inside a photographic lens. The size of the diaphragm opening in the camera lens regulates the amount of light passing through onto the recording medium inside the camera. 
The size of an aperture in the lens can either be fixed or an adjected form, like an SLR camera. Aperture is usually calibrated in f-numbers. 
Aperture and Shutter Prority modes are really semi-manual, or semi-automatic modes that give you some control over the camera and the image achieved. 

A Large Aperture = Small Depth of Field

Shutter Speed/Aperture

Shutter Speed > Time - How long the Len is open for.

Film Speed (or ISO) = Quatily of Image. 

                                    Slower the reaction = Better the image 

B - Blub 

(1 Second) 1 - 60

(1/2 Second) 2 - 125

(4/3 Second) 4 - 250

(8/4 Second) 8 - 500

15 - 1000

Kandinsky's VS My Own

Kandinsky's
Black Circle
1924

In this workshop, we were told to copy a piece Kandinsky using; 

colours

 shapes

line

in the style of Kandinsky's work, on Adobe Illustrator. 

My Own 

I used this piece of artwork as inspiration. The first thing i had to do was; open Adobe Illustrator, on the first layer put Kandinsky work, and open a clean layer and then used the shape tool to create the circles in Kandinsky's work. The circles used are all different sizes, so we had to change the size and thickness of the brush stokes. After that, I used the line tool to do the same thing. Changing the brush stoke and thickness. To get similar colours used, I used hue and saturation to get as close as possible. The difference between Kandinsky's artwork and my own are that, his work is more textured and the colours are grainy because he used pencils and paint. I used Adobe Illustrator. By using Illustrator  my shapes are neater and I could make the circles and the lines bigger or smaller, depending on if they needed to be without losing quality. Also, i could make the circles bigger, without them becoming pixelated. My colours were very block colours, with different opacities. I prefer Kandinsky's artwork, because it has more detail, but the colours are very dull and faded. More that reason, I prefer my work, because the colours are sharp and bright. Overall, I prefer Kandinsky because the textured look, gives this artwork character.