Studiolighting

• x2 Flash heads
• x2 Reflective hoods
• x2 Power leads
• x1 Reflective umbrellas 
• x2 Protective caps 
• x2 Light stands

Snoot- Highlights hair. Sends direct light source.

Reflective Hood - Bounces and makes light travel further.

Soft Box - Defuses light/shadow/soft. 

Umbrellas - White - Same as soft box.

                 - Sliver - Reflected 

Barn Doors - Change the way light is hitting.

Reflectors - Help bounce extra light into photo 

                 - Gold - Warm lighting

Trigger and Receiver - Light flashes when the camera is pressed.

                                                 Light Meter - Measures the amount of light and tells you what                                                 F number to put your camera on. 

Health and Safety 

Film Processing

fEquipment List - 

Tank Body

Centre Column 

Light-tight Funnel lid

Agitator Stick 

Plastic cap

Change Bag 

Scissors 

Spiral

Film retriever or bottle opener 

The Process 

Step 1: Place the following equipment into the change bag, make sure everything you need is in the second layer of the changing bag, zip up both zips. 

Step 2:  Use the scissors to cut the end of the film. You are only working with what you can touch. 

Do not cut to much off, or you will be cutting off your exposed film. 

Step 3: Hold your film in one hand and your spiral in the other- search and feel around for the two notches, one on either side.  Place your film underneath the two notches, pull it round gently and then use two hands to turn one side down and the in the other hand pull the other side up. 

Pull it round until you run out of film. It make sure you have defiantly run out of film gently pull the cassette and if it doesn't allow you to pull anymore out- cut the end off and then continue to turn the spiral until there's nothing left. 

Step 4: Slide the spiral into the centre column. Making sure the flat, wider part is on the bottom.  The spiral on the column must be fully down. If you only have one film, you have to put an empty spiral on top. 

Step 5: Once the centre column and spirals are in the tank body- secure the funnel lid by twisting and locking it into place. Secure the plastic cap and remove everything from the bag. You add the chemicals next. 

Do not remove lid or change anything in light, as you will expose your film and destiny your photos.   

Selection Tools in Photoshop

Marguee tool - Let's us drag basic rectangular and ellipse shapes.

Hold down the shift key to keep the height and width the same.

Deselect - Gets rid of any selected areas - Select>Deselect= control+D

Lasso/Polygonal Lasso/Magnetic Lasso tools 

Lasso - Click and hold to outline a selection, joins the two ends of the line when you let go.

Polygonal Lasso - Click point-to-point to outline a selection with straight edges - Double click to join the two ends. 

Magnetic Lasso - Looks for similar colours, or a line to automatically create a line that you move your mouse across. You can force a point in, by left clicking anywhere you wish.

Invert selection - Switches the selected area(s) to deselected and deselected areas. Select>Inverse = Shift+Control+i

Anti-alias/Feather - The anti-alias checkbox lets you smooth out the edges of a selection to avoid pixelated edge.

Feather - The amount of blurring you can add to the edge of a selection (measured in pixels)minsters of a head edge. This can be used to make selections 'fade out'

Magic Wand - Click to select an area that is all the same colour. You can adjust the tolerance to make it either select just one exact colour (0) or pick a wider range of colours 

Clipping Mask in Illustrator

Shape tool - Press and hold the icon (4th icon down in the toolbar) for different shapes. You can either drag the shape to create it, or click once to open a dialog box allowing you to choose the size and number of sides if you are creating a polygon (if you are creating a shape with 3 or more sides)

Pen tool - (1st one on toolbar) Click and point to make a path

Type tool - (2nd one down on toolbar) Click to insert text or drag a text box to fit into. You can set the font and size.

Click File>Place and choose your image

Using the Selection tool. Select your image, the press Object>Arrange>Send to back or use the layer s palette to arrange your shape and image.

Your shape needs to be in front of your image to properly apply the clipping mask.

To apply the clipping mask, select both (the image and shape) Then click Object>Clipping Mask>Make

In the workshop we had to use clipping mask in, we had to make our own design using the scans that we had already scanned into the computer. 

Composition, Rule of Third, Viewpoint, Perspective

Composition - The arrangement or layout of something.

Rule of Thirds - breaking your image down, into smaller sections.

Viewpoint - The angle of the photograph. Every photo has a viewpoint as it is the angle you point the camera.

Perspective - The art of repressing three-dimensional objects on a 2D surface, gives you the right impression of the height or distance 

ISO - How many pixels in an image 

Colour and Composition

Colour and the layout or any successful piece of art. The colour and composition are a must have in keeping the audience engaged with the work. The use of colour can establish the mood of the work, depending on if the colours were contrasting, complimenting or harmonious. 

Composition is where things within the art are placed and how they work together. 

Formal Elements 

Line - A single long mark. This can be made by anything, not just a pencil. 

Shape - The outline or form of something 

Tone - Light and dark. This can be shown by shading and will make object's look realistic and solid. 

Form - The solid 3D shape of an object 

Pattern - When shapes, colours or line are repeated and gathered together 

Texture - How the surface of something feels/looks

Colour - There are 3 primary colours: red, blue, yellow. By mixing 2 together you get the secondary colours. Blue + red = purple. Blue + yellow = green. Red + yellow = orange. 

The Principles of Design 

Pattern - A regular arrangement of alternated or repeated element (shapes, lines, colours) or motifs.

Contrast - The juxtaposition of different elements of design (e.g positive and negative) in order to highlight their differences and/or to creat visual interest, or focal point.

Emphasis - Special attention/importance given to one part of work. Emphasis can be achieved through placement, contrast, colour, size, repetition. Relates to a focal point.

Balance - A feeling of balance results when the elements of design are arranged symmetrically or asymmetrically to create the impression of equality in weight or importance.

Proportion/scales - The relationship between objects with respect to size, number, including the relation between parts of a whole.

Harmony - The arrangement of elements to give the viewer the feeling that all parts of the piece form a coherent whole. 

Rhythm/movement - The use of recurring elements to direct the movement of the eye through the artwork. There are 5 kinds if rhythm: random, regular, alternating, progressive, and flowing. Organised to lead the eye to the focal point

Photograms

Photograms 

A Photograms is a camera-less photography. Produced with photographic paper. For our Photograms we used 2/3D materials and objects. Depending on some materials we used, we knew light would pass through them, but we weren't sure on how much light would, until we developed and saw our test strip or image in the light. 

Step by step

Step 1: Set up enlarger, according to height needed. The light must cover the printing area. Set all filters to 0 (CMY, set the aperture to f8 and light timer to 3.0 seconds

Step 2: Cut a thin strip of photographic paper for a test strip. Place the test strip emulsion side up (shinny side). Place your chosen objects on top of the paper and expose for 3 seconds. Then get a bit of card to cover sections of your photographic paper (2-3cm at a time) and expose for 3 seconds

Step 3: Process test strip in chemical baths. Develop, stop bath, fix (1-2minutes) remove the test strip from the water, put into a tray and take your test strip outside into light. So you can choose your correct exposure time.

You'd be looking for the first good black. Count divisions starting from the lightest side. The first/lightest section represents 3 seconds. Must go up in 3 seconds for each division.

Step 4: Once you have picked out your most successful division on your test strip, put it back in the fix. Set your enlarger timer to the correct time. Making sure all lights are still off.

Step 5: Get your final bigger photographic paper and place your object on the paper. Expose for correct time and then develop in chemicals following the same method and time as before. 

Dry prints and test strip when finished. 

Once dry, don't not get wet again. 

Health and Safety

• Work area must stay uncluttered and tidy to prevent tripping over 
• Must keep everything dry, away from everything wet. It could ruin all your work
• Use least toxic chemicals available
• Darkroom should be kept well ventilated 
• Keep all chemicals separate, do not mix or use the some tongs 

Objects I used in my Photograms
Key, netting, plastic card, dead flower, spring, twisted wooden ball

                                     

Dark Room Developing

Chemical Processes

Step 1: Developer- 1:1 mix

How to mix the developer.

When mixing the developer and water, take the temperature of the developer first and then match the water, (150ml of water and developer at 20 degrees) 

Example- If your developer reads 22C, you would have to make your water 18C. So when you mix the two together, the temperature will be 20C. 

Developing times: PAN (50 ISO) = 8 - 9 minutes 

FP4 (125 ISO) = 12 minutes 

HP5 (400 ISO) = 14 minutes 

Step 2: Stop Bath 

(pre-mixed from the bottle) 

Stop Bath = 300ml for 30 seconds - Film facedown

(The chemical used, can be re-used)

Step 3: Fix 

(pre-mixed from bottle) 

Fix = 300ml for 5 - 7 minutes 

Agitate film for 5 seconds every 30 seconds untill film is fully fixed.

Step 4: Wash

Wash the film for 10 minutes in a tray of cold, clean water. 

Step 5: Drying

Dry film in a film dryer can take unto 5-15 minutes depending on the temperature

Manual Photography

In this workshop, we had to change the F numbers and the aperture manually. The type of camera we had to use was a Nikon D30. I order to get a good picture, we had to think of the shutter speed, aperture and what our focal point should, or was in the image.
Some of my images were a little bit too over-exposed, such as the 4th and 5th. I could improve those two by changing the shutter speed. By increasing the shutter speed, the lens wouldn't of allowed so much light through the lens, which would change the over-all image, it would've made the colours more vibrate and the focal point would of been more focused.
The 1st image, wasn't awful, but I feel like, there should have been more the in background in order for it to be the focal point. The aperture stayed in F/5-6 through-out all my photos. The shutter speed was on 80. I could of improved this image timing it better, waiting for something better in the background. I like this image, because of contrasting colours of Lily's hair and the trees in the background.
My favourite images were 2nd, 3rd and 6th. I think the focal points were focused well and I think the photos weren't too little, or too over exposed. 

The Albion and Etching Press

The Albion Press

The Albion Press is a model of an early iron hard printing press. Richard Whittaker in 1820 designed it. Albion Press were manufacted in London up till 1930's. They were used for commercial book printing. They worked using a simple toggle action, which presses ink onto a paper. The Albion Press has a wheel on the side of it. You can pull round the wheel which causes the board to move through and under the roller. That puts an even amount of pressure onto the surface you are printing on to. 

The Etching Press

Etching is a form of printing along with engraving. Using the Etching Press- There is a heavy copper or zinc plate, used as the press. It also has a big leaver, when you pull towards you, by pulling this down it pulls down the zinc or copper plate, which causes pressure to forced down into the object being printed onto. Daniel Hopfer had been believed to be the first to use the technique. Etching Presses trace back to the 1500's, they were used to decorate armour and weapons. 

Aperture and Depth of Field

Aperture

Aperture - refers to the lens diaphragm opening inside a photographic lens. The size of the diaphragm opening in the camera lens regulates the amount of light passing through onto the recording medium inside the camera. 
The size of an aperture in the lens can either be fixed or an adjected form, like an SLR camera. Aperture is usually calibrated in f-numbers. 
Aperture and Shutter Prority modes are really semi-manual, or semi-automatic modes that give you some control over the camera and the image achieved. 

A Large Aperture = Small Depth of Field

Shutter Speed/Aperture

Shutter Speed > Time - How long the Len is open for.

Film Speed (or ISO) = Quatily of Image. 

                                    Slower the reaction = Better the image 

B - Blub 

(1 Second) 1 - 60

(1/2 Second) 2 - 125

(4/3 Second) 4 - 250

(8/4 Second) 8 - 500

15 - 1000

Kandinsky's VS My Own

Kandinsky's
Black Circle
1924

In this workshop, we were told to copy a piece Kandinsky using; 

colours

 shapes

line

in the style of Kandinsky's work, on Adobe Illustrator. 

My Own 

I used this piece of artwork as inspiration. The first thing i had to do was; open Adobe Illustrator, on the first layer put Kandinsky work, and open a clean layer and then used the shape tool to create the circles in Kandinsky's work. The circles used are all different sizes, so we had to change the size and thickness of the brush stokes. After that, I used the line tool to do the same thing. Changing the brush stoke and thickness. To get similar colours used, I used hue and saturation to get as close as possible. The difference between Kandinsky's artwork and my own are that, his work is more textured and the colours are grainy because he used pencils and paint. I used Adobe Illustrator. By using Illustrator  my shapes are neater and I could make the circles and the lines bigger or smaller, depending on if they needed to be without losing quality. Also, i could make the circles bigger, without them becoming pixelated. My colours were very block colours, with different opacities. I prefer Kandinsky's artwork, because it has more detail, but the colours are very dull and faded. More that reason, I prefer my work, because the colours are sharp and bright. Overall, I prefer Kandinsky because the textured look, gives this artwork character.